“MORE THAN A POLISHED ACT” INTERVIEW WITH ELISA CASAS AND DAVID MUNK
By: Marjory Baxter Stewart

Elisa Casas and David Munk, proprietors of the Chelsea Girl Couture boutique in Soho, are sure of one thing: the down economy is just one element in the “perfect storm” that is making their high-end vintage clothing store buzz with business. The establishment, which has been open since 1993, had their best January and February ever and easily bested 2008’s pre-recession numbers. With regular visits from high-visibility customers like stylist-to-the-stars Rachel Zoe (who featured Chelsea Girl on her popular Bravo reality show and is their number one customer), Claire Danes, Penelope Cruz, Kirsten Dunst, Bjork, Mandy Moore, Sienna Miller and so many more, the couple seem relaxed and excited about the current state of things.What explains this uptick in vintage clothing sales while small businesses throughout the city and neighborhood merchants are shutting their doors at a worrisome frequency?Casas says, “the first major consideration is utility; even in a challenging economic climate, women still need a dress for an event, a winter coat or a handbag. Vintage clothing is already perceived as a clever and frugal choice for the customer who is thinking more about value but still wants something beautiful and special, as opposed to a more expensive designer purchase from a department store. A related factor might be more behavioral. “Even though there is palpable feeling of anxiety,” Casas added, “women are women and still have the impulse to shop. Our customer may not be spending as much as she did a year ago, but the desire to get out there and buy something seems rather innate and recession proof. We’ve diversified our price points to take this into account.”

If people are spending less, then why is the store more profitable? Munk explained, “in the past we could afford to be somewhat complacent. Customers just came to us and spent. We’ve responded to these challenges with creativity – we go out and find our people more and more.” A brand-new website, underwriting special events and availing ourselves to creative co-branding opportunities are a few of the new mandates. “I guess we’re working much harder!” he laughed, and their efforts seem to be effective.Another factor is the personality of vintage garments. Munk added, “our customers appreciate the unique aspect of vintage. A girl going to a prom or a women attending a black-tie benefit doesn’t want the same dress her friend has and we offer a one-of-a-kind selection. She won’t have that red carpet nightmare of seeing another woman in the same outfit, even if her red carpet is her senior prom. For example, a 1950’s “new look silouette” cocktail dress (think Audrey Hepburn – fitted bodice and full skirt with lots of volume in tulle, satin or silk, with a petticoat underneath), by a designer like Emma Domb or Ceil Chapman, exists outside of trends, so to purchase one for three or four hundred dollars is to have made an investment in a classic, iconic piece that will continue to work in her wardrobe for many years, not just for a season. It just so happens that in times of economic hardship, women seem to gravitate to a more glamorous look, so we’re right there with them.”A further theory as to why vintage clothing seems to be catching the cultural zeitgeist is its natural association with the green movement. Chelsea Girl Couture’s staff stresses the implicit logic in recycling the best of the past, Munk said, “with vintage, you don’t have to sacrifice fashion to help reduce your carbon footprint – I mean, we’re not selling hemp skirts and vintage Birkenstocks here!”So what are they selling? “Wearable casual and dressy clothing from the 1920’s to the 1980’s,” says the owner. “A carefully curated collection of cocktail dresses, gowns, fine and high-end costume jewelry, vintage purses and handbags, hobo bags and designers like Diane von Furstenberg, Hermes, YSL, Scaasi, Halston, Bob Mackie, Ceil Chapman, Emma Domb, Missoni, and Pucci – we get new things literally every day.” There is something for everyone from younger shoppers a budget to the designers themselves, who frequently buy their clothes and just remake them. Casas added, “we recently sold a large quantity of unworn, vintage DVF wrap dresses back to the designer for her archive!”One benefit of the challenging economy is that many people are de-accessioning items from their own collections. Casas and Munk are able to buy better and better merchandise at more favorable prices. Munk says, “at the risk of stating the obvious, people need cash and this enables us to be extremely choosy about what we buy.”In a competitive environment, presentation counts more than ever. Munk elaborated, “it’s not your grandmother’s closet with a musty smell and overstuffed racks.” CGC presents its clothing in an elegant setting that treats its inventory with the respect given to quality antiques. “We identify classic pieces and teach our customers how to wear them in a thoroughly contemporary way – though many of them are passionate collectors, designers, models, stylists and celebrities who don’t need much direction, just the venue and someone fun to shop with.” Indeed the couple, friends for 26 years since their days of cutting their NYU classes to scour the flea markets and vintage stores, are convinced that people enjoy their “act” as much as they do the clothing and are beginning to provide styling services to customers themselves. Munk laughs, “any port in a storm, I guess.”